A fantastic spicy offering from the Himalayas
A little over a decade ago, the website Margaret’s Home declared, “If you want flavor and color, it’s worth your time and effort to hunt down a box of Kashmiri chili powder.” What we have on hand at the Deli, from the spice-importing specialists at Burlap & Barrel in New York, comes in a bottle, not a box, but I wouldn’t let the type of container slow you down. If you’re looking for great ground chili pepper, put this stuff on your shopping list!
Kashmir itself sounds like an extraordinary place to visit; I’ve not yet been, but … one day. Acclaimed author Salman Rushdie says,
I’ve never seen anywhere in the world as beautiful as Kashmir. It has something to do with the fact that the valley is very small and the mountains are very big, so you have this miniature countryside surrounded by the Himalayas, and it’s just spectacular. And it’s true, the people are very beautiful, too.
The region has a long and, in recent years, controversial history. While arguments about Kashmiri sovereignty continue on apace, I don’t think anyone will disagree about its beauty, or about the deliciousness of this ground chili—which, over centuries, has become a culinary point of pride.
Chiles, of course, are not native to the area—they came from the western hemisphere and were part of the massive interchange of ingredients that took place in the 16th century, after Columbus landed in the Americas. Portuguese traders are largely credited with bringing chili peppers to India around that time, along with other crops, such as potatoes and tomatoes. In the ensuing centuries, all three became integral parts of many regional Indian cuisines.
Chiles, or what locals in the area call laal mirch, turned out to do especially well in the mountain region of Kashmir. Exceptionally rich soil, along with high levels of sunshine in a still-moderate climate, combine to yield a chili that is especially flavorful without being over-the-top hot. The chiles for this powder are all handpicked and then sun-dried on local rooftops and courtyards. The aroma of the dried and ground chili is crisp, citrusy, and superb, and it also has a notable color—a bright red that could well have appeared in a Kandinsky painting.
Among other uses, the Kashmiri ground chili is often included in tandoori chicken. The dish grew popular when it was famously served to Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime minister of India, after independence in 1947. Later, it was supposedly served to Jacqueline Kennedy while she was flying from New York to Bombay, earning the dish a lot of attention in the US.
In recent weeks, I’ve added some of the Kashmiri chili to salads, pasta sauces, potato salads—you name it; if you like a little spice, this one is for you! As the folks at Premium Spices in New Zealand say of the Kashmiri chili, “In every spoonful, you taste not just warmth and color, but a living legacy. A legacy that continues to be celebrated across continents, kitchens, and generations.”